Tweak your Second Life preferences a bit and make Second Life look much better. And if it looks better to you, it looks better in Snapshot too. ;)
There are three major parts in this tutorial:
- Changes you make to your Second Life preferences
- Options you can toggle on and off in the Client menu
- Camera control
We’ll start with the changes you can make to your Second Life preferences. Go into the Edit menu and choose Preferences.
The Graphics tab:
In the ‘Graphics’ tab you will find ‘Draw Distance’ with an number behind it. That number is in meters and tells you in a how far a distance from your camera objects, avatars and such will look completely rezzed. Anything beyond that number will look blurry or will not be visible at all. As you’ll increase the number, you’ll look further and see more clear, but it will make Second Life run slower.
In real life photographers play with the diafragma of a camera to make parts of a picture blurry to enhance the feeling of depth in a photograph or if they want the whole photograph to be crystal sharp for landscape photography. With draw distance you can do the same in Second Life: if you want your subject to stand out against a background that’s more then 64 meters away from your camera, decrease the number to 64 and the background will be blurred and with less contrast. If you want to shoot an impressive Second Life scenery, increase the number all the way up to 512 meters.
Here comes my plea to Linden Labs: Please will you lower the minimum focus distance to something around 0.5 meters or so? Second Life portrait photography would certainly benefit from that.
The Graphics Detail tab
All the options in the settings tab ‘Graphics Detail’ influence what you see and how you see in Second Life and so all of them will also influence the pictures you take.
The most important is Lightning Detail. If ‘Nearby local lights’ is activated you will not only see the light that comes from the sun and moon, but also light sources created by other Second Life residents. Garden lights, photography spots, club lights, … will all cast their own light and shadows, which makes our second life look a bit more like first life.
As demonstrated in Torley’s Advanced Snapshot Magic video (somewhere at 8.40) you can also create your very own cheap light sources if the location allows you to create objects there.
Also ‘Enable Bumpmapping and Shiny’ is definitely worth being activated. Objects are often made shiny or bumpmapped so they resemble their first life brothers and sisters better. If you don’t enable this, you won’t be able to see those special effects.
The Avatar Vertex Progam takes care of avatars and their shading. The shading to avatars looks more natural when this option is enabled. If your graphics cards allows so, and you’re going to shoot some portraits of your fellow Second Life residents, consider switching this on.
The Advance Graphics tab
The Adv. Graphics tab – I guess you’ll have figured out yourself that stands for ‘Advanced Graphics’ – gives us even some more means to ‘tweak’ our photographs in-world.
Gamma and Nighttime Brightness allow you to make your view brighter. It’s a very handy way to tweak your picture’s contrast in-world if you don’t posses or are allergic to Photoshop.
The Fog Distance Ratio is closely related to the ‘Draw Distance’ option. The higher the number, the clearer your background will be. This does not affect Second Life speed at all.
Torley’s clarification on fog distance ratio: “focus distance” doesn’t serve the exact same purpose as “Draw Distance” but if you wanna make things realllly close up, then lower the Fog Distance Ratio to, like, 0.1 with “Draw Distance” set to 64. It’s not as close, but here’s what you can do: position a friend (model) towards the foggier part away from you, and use Ctrl-0 to zoooom in! Then you can capture some of the softer feelings.
Anisotropic Filtering will make textures less blurry when looked at them from certain angles. I only put it on when I’m shooting at location, because it slows down Second Life significantly for me.
Object Mesh Detail makes all objects – actually all prims, but an object is nothing but a collection of primitive shapes – look finely finished or raw and blocky, depending on if you slide it to the left (objects look like if they where build during the stone age) or the right (the objects show like they were meant to be seen).
The same goes for trees (Tree Mesh Detail) and avatar attachments (Avatar Mesh Detail). For avatar attachments, when the mesh detail is lowered, they will not look ugly, but the attachments will just not show at all.
If you want to know about some options from the Preferences that I didn’t cover (enough), you should consider reading The Second Life Preferences Guide from the Second Life Knowledge Base.
The second part of this Second Life snapshot tutorial consists of interesting things you can do using the ‘Client’ (activate it by pressing Ctrl+Alt+D) menu:
High-res Snapshot
It’s under the ‘Client’ menu and when you have a ‘X’ in front of it, it’s activated. It’s only useful if you use the ‘Snapshot to Disk’ function because you can change the resolution settings manually in the Take Snapshot option window. Normally if you take a ‘Snapshot to Disk’, it has the same resolution as your monitor. When High-res Snapshot is activated, that resolution is doubled. (eg. 1280×744 2,72MB becomes 2560×1488 10,8MB)
Mouse Moves Sun
Ever been in a situation where you have the most perfect scene and a gorgeous model present, but the sun refuses to cooperate? Well, why don’t you just move the sun then? Play for god by going into the client menu and activating ‘Mouse move sun’ under ‘World’. You can also just press Ctrl+Alt+M. Now you just press M or go to ‘World’ and then choose ‘Mouselook’. Move your mouse around and see how the sun follows. Move it up a bit for daylight and down for a beautiful Second Life sunset.
Pressing Escape or M on your keyboard let’s you quit the mouselook-mode and the sun stays where you’ve put it. It would be great if they could implement this feature in real life too. ;)
Quiet Snapshots to Disk
The people around you won’t hear that awfully fake *click* sound anymore when you take Snapshots to Disk. Neither will they see your hands move, so if you activate ‘Quiet Snapshots to Disk’ that hawt stripper will never know you’ve photographed her. ;)
Disable Camera Constraints
When ‘Disable Camera Constraints’ is activated, you can move your camera around the whole sim and even further. This a a great option to use for Second Life landscape and aerial photography. Moving your camera around when all constraints are gone becomes a whole lot easier if you active the Camera Controls that are under the View menu.
Although if you start to use ‘Disable Camera Constraints’, sooner or later you are bound to lose track of your camera. using the ‘Camera Controls’ makes that less likely to happen.
You can activate Camera Controls in the View menu. An interface tab with two circles and a slider in between them will appear. The slider serves for letting your camera zoom in and out. You can rotate your camera around your focus point (alt+click-focus-point, remember?) by clicking the arrows on the left circle. Rotating the camera around it’s own vertical and horizontal axis is done by respectively the left and right and up and below arrows in the circle on your right. As with all second and first life things, you get better at it by doing it a lot. Have you tried taking a aerial photography of your favourite second life location already?
If you have any questions, remarks or tips I forgot to put in, don’t hesistate to leave a comment, to drop an email or to contact me in-world.



18 Responses to “SL Photography: In-world tips and tricks”
[…] present to you Second Life Photography: in-world tips and tricks. It’s my second tutorial and takes off where Second Life Photography: The Basics ended. […]
One clarification: “focus distance” doesn’t serve the exact same purpose as “Draw Distance” but if you wanna make things realllly close up, then lower the Fog Distance Ratio to, like, 0.1 with “Draw Distance” set to 64. It’s not as close, but here’s what you can do: position a friend (model) towards the foggier part away from you, and use Ctrl-0 to zoooom in! Then you can capture some of the softer feelings.
I used to click the Camera Controls more but I’ve felt liberated by using keyboard shortcuts instead. This is covered in my “Second Life | Tips & Tricks | December 2006“.
But before I say too much, let me smile, for the sun shines on you… AWESOME sequel! Your tutorials are bookmarked here and I look forward to more thrilling work from you.
Cool Photography Tutorials…
One is about \”SL Photography: The Basics\” and the other one is named \”SL Photography: In-world tips and tricks\” both are highly recommendable and gives you alot of infos on who the client is exactly working….
Thank you. Awesome is a great word to read. ;)
As for the camera controls using the keys, I do use that, but not if I’m sending the camera far far away. If SL is laggy then - which is, let’s face it - quite often, I tend to get all disoriented. That and they switched the page up and page down keys on the laptop of you compare it to the PC, so that’s even more confusing. :d
I hope you don’t mind if I put the extra explanation you gave in the comments about the fog and draw distance into the tutorial too?
[…] page, where so far there are two posts: one that goes over the basics and another that provides tips and tricks. Good […]
Thank you for this nice tutorial … I will test it asap!
:-)
I don’t understand the ‘quiet snapshot to disc’ bit…. what should i do?
it doesn’t seem to work unfortunately
Thank you
i figured it out…. sorry for the first post :-)
Np. Glad you figured it out. ;)
Firstly let me say that you’ve got some great photos in your flickr stream.
I think you offer some good advice here and I’ve already found it very useful.
One problem for me however, is getting a High-res Snapshot. The slider isn’t available to me. Any thoughts on this - could it be because I only have a free SL account at the moment?
It’ s posted in the comments. High quality send a postcard is currently not possible. How ever, you can save a high quality to your HD. Just go to the client menu, activate it there, and then ‘take snapshot to disk’. You can also go to the ‘take snapshot’ menu/interface and then select ’snapshot to disk’ and change the resolution manually. 3600×2800 is the utter maximum for me. (But I own a rather old computer.)
If something’s not clear yet, feel free to IM me in world and tell me exactly what you try to do.
Thanks for your very prompt answer.
I’ll try your suggestion but if I still have problem, then I’ll take you up on your offer and contact you ‘in world‘.
Thanks again Chriz :-)
Thanks for very interesting tips about client menu! :)
My snapshots started being saved in j2c format instead of bmp and I am dumbfounded how did that happen..I certainly don’t remember changing the settings…can anyone advise how to get the.bmp back? Thanks a lot!
Go into your client menu (ctrl+alt+d) and untoggle ‘compress snapshot to disk’. Does that help?
A trick I use for fashion and wedding photos is to drop a 10m high, 10m wide prim behind the subject then put it to a colour, say black and change the transparency. I use it to control the background brightness and make the subject stand out.
If you use a random texture on the prim you can get a soft-focus effect for the background.
Oh you are great Vint! It sure worked! :) I’ve spent 4 days searching high and low on forums and sl tutorials and didn’t find an answer…you are a life saver, thank so much :).
Asp, indeed, it’s a neat trick if you are allowed to rezz objects. I did this one using the ‘rez transparant prim in background’ technique:
Reyna, glad thinks are fixed. =)
Care to comment?